Some profiles will be difficult to follow with just one cut. It takes a bit of practice to master the trick, but once you do, you’ll be able to achieve a perfect cope in less than 60 seconds and never grab for the coping saw again. How to Cut Baseboard with a Coping Saw. Do us a favor and leave a comment with how things turned out. So, are you saying that we shouldn’t miter the baseboards? One other tip is to have a scrap piece handy wherever you’re coping so that you can fine tune the joint right there instead of dragging it in the house only to see you have a few high spots. This will orient you more comfortably when using the coping saw. 3) I generally cut it at least one to three more times, maybe a kerf-width per cut. If you plan on cope cutting your molding, you’ll need to grab a few extra items including a coping saw, sand paper and/or wood file. Make a reverse 45-degree cut to expose the profile. That’s pretty much my technique as well. You don’t want to go through coping one end to find the other is too short. The usual way to get tight inside corners on trim is to “cope” them—to cut a profile on one part that will fit over the adjoining part. The less scarf joints you have, the better. I didn’t even consider using a Dremel. Once you get used to the process, you can work even faster by dragging the base sideways while lowering the blade at the same time. In one minute, this is how a scarf joint will be: After you cut the second board, fit the two together. Now let’s try it on 45 degree crown molding around the ceiling of a dining room with ten foot ceilings. Make several cuts rather than trying to twist the coping blade. Good thoughts. Could You Have Made it in Construction With These Tools From 1951? also, files are MUCH more effective than sandpaper. After looking around a lot of sites/video I found your advice most helpful: “2) And 1/4″ – 1/8″ to the measurement, meaning I know I will have to cut it again. As Ethan mentioned the cut isn’t quite as clean with MDF as with wood, but you can finish the edge so that no one can tell the difference. The miters have thankfully remained tight. Baseboard often tilts inward at the bottom because of the drywall's tapered edge. They’re all like that on his site, he might not cover every project, but the ones he does cover are done VERY well. 3) I generally cut it at least one to three more times, maybe a kerf-width per cut.”. To answer your question, you can make 45 degree miter cuts with the stock up against the fence. Did you use the foot on your paneling? Your saw has to be adjusted so it cuts perfectly square in the vertical direction. Start out straight up. I have coped MDF and it works just the same. I’ve been installing the baseboard molding, and it’s going up pretty quick. Yes it is a little more work but with a compound miter it is still fast to fine tune your cuts. That means lots of slow, fussy work with a coping saw. I’m a tad confused. If it tilts, remove it and drive a screw into the framing near the floor. The directions are pretty straightforward but this technique takes a little skill. Coped joints for baseboard look great, but can be time-consuming. This reveals the profile of your baseboard. Instead of using a coping saw, learn to cope 1×4 baseboard with a miter saw. The coping saw and I have been buddies ever since my pinewood derby days but I’m going to try the dremel out next time. It is slower and not for a speed freak, but important to note is that it may yield much better results in homes with bad walls and non-90 degree corners (e.g. It is a clever method that I did with my Dad when I was young. And that makes coping tricky. Those are good tips to read before taking on this project… this can definitely be a tricky diy project if you’ve never done it before. Editor note: This post originally ran after I installed hardwood floors in September of 2008. Instead of using a coping saw, learn to cope baseboard with a miter saw. With a coping saw, cut along the profile. Hello You Designs.